Sunday, June 26, 2011

Oil and Spice (and Other Things Nice)


There’s a cool little shop down in our neighboring far East Bay city of Brentwood, and Kathy and I drove out yesterday to check in.

We hadn’t visited Brentwood Spice and Olive Oil Company in over a year, so we were definitely long overdue. Every once in a while, we’d run into proprietors Dawn and David at the occasional wine tasting around the region, and we receive their monthly e-newsletters, but I think the last time we saw them on their own home turf was when Kath was in desperate need of a couple of teaspoons of cardamom seeds for a recipe: Selling even minute quantities of a huge array of bulk ingredients, it was Brentwood Spice to the rescue!

As pioneering olive growers and producers of CoCo County olive oils, and prime purveyors of culinary seasoning, Dawn and David’s endeavor represents the ultimate marriage made in foodie heaven; not just in business, but in real life, too.

Relatively recently, the proprietors have added wine to the spicy mix. Kathy and I got to check it out for the first time, and we were truly impressed with the several dozen selections representing a worldwide swath at great price points. One of our favorite varietal grapes is Lemberger. It was supposed to have been Washington state’s answer to Zinfandel years ago, but the name, like the wines made from it, never caught on up there. Well, darned if Dawn and David’s small shop didn’t feature a Lemberger from Lodi of all places! It was one of the only Lembergers we’ve seen since we moved to CoCo, and pretty well the only local one we’ve encountered.

Another treasure we walked away with was a dessert Zinfandel currently (currantly?) sporting the label of “Brentwood Cellars,” reflecting D&D’s newest venture: their own wine line. This particular 2003 vintage bottling was produced at an established winery in nearby Martinez, and sported a different wrapping until David and Dawn were able to jump through all the government hoops which regulate what needs to legally appear (or not appear) on a wine label.

The 2003 Zinfandel Paraiso California Dessert Wine is an 18% sweetie now adorned in new Brentwood Cellars duds. It exhibits a nice unctuous nose of dried plum hinting of cloves. It’s a tasty mouthful of plump raisin and big fruit in balanced sweetness on a long finish.

Dawn told us yesterday that she was recently given about three dozen Zin clippings, which she plopped into the ground in their backyard; they’re all now bearing blossoms. Too bad we’ll have to wait a while for the wine made from that fruit. Let the countdown begin.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Midnight in the Garden of Good and Earwig


So, Kathy and I are in the second full year here at the Oakley ranch, and we’re trying to learn from last year’s gardening mishaps. The sun can be intensely unrelenting during prime growing season, and temps routinely top 90 degrees.

Last year, Kathy constructed several raised beds and we placed them on our south-facing front lawn. I couldn’t wait to pop the produce and the citrus trees into the amended soil, and then let Cali show us the bounty.

Mutiny on that bounty, dude.

By August, the Meyer lemon branches looked like they came from a nursery in Hiroshima; likewise, the fig tree was scorched like something from a Cormac McCarthy novel.

We did place two beds in the backyard, and had a bit of success with some select varieties of tomato and a few herbs, so when we took the plunge to put the crowbar into the wallet for a front- and backyard landscape design makeover in November, Kath opted, presciently, to move all the raised beds to the back, and go for a drought-friendly design out front.

After 2011 rains that cut U-Pick cherry season short, and unseasonably chilly temperatures that had one roll down sleeves to the forearm, the Oakley ‘hood finally has its Fahren-chutzpah back: The thermometer is routinely bumping the high 80s and 90s these days.

Like last year, our raised-bed gardening in a new locale was an experiment. Unlike last year, the consolidation of all the beds to one location in the more-temperate backyard seems to be relatively successful, knock on untreated lumber.

We posted earlier about Kath’s adherence to the bed allotment suggested by author Lolo Houbein in her tome “One Magic Square.” After 2010’s dismal heat failures out front, we’re actually overwhelmed at how lush all the beds out back are looking this year. Kathy’s combo of starts from seeds and from small pots has created a jungle out there. Famine in 2010; feast in 2011. While last year we had to hope that the eggplant would form out front, today Kath worries that she should have culled more healthy growth weeks ago!

And then, natch, there’s Earwig and the Angry Inch. Same backyard critter that vexed Kathy last year; it’s driving her, literally, bugs, today. Last year, we’d had a small, albeit healthy, crop of greens one day; next day, decimated. Actually, check that: “decimated’ literally means “reduced by 10%.” This mofo bug licked the plate clean and asked for 200% seconds.

Now, you have to understand that I have what is called a “black thumb.” I move a plant from the crappy clay “soil” that makes up our front yard into a rich potting mix? It’s dead in 12 hours, maximum. Dude, I can kill mint.

A swarm of earwigs in our backyard beat me to it.

But here’s the deal: Earwig and the Angry Inch are back for an encore this summer — Kath goes out in her jammas with a flashlight; she doesn’t want to spray, but feels that she has to — and yet the garden, even with some earwig chomps, is displaying the green.

Don’t know whether it’s the concentration of raised beds in one location; maybe it’s the overfilling of said beds with a local potting mix, overseeding, or finally getting the planting right for the region? This garden gig will always escape me; everyone writes about how citrus in California is foolproof. I wish; see above: “mint,” re: “thumb, black.” I fear that I will never be able to tell Lemon Lady down the street that the only bag with I ever went haywire was, “You, lady.”

Or maybe the relative lushness of the garden conforms to the theory of “one for the earwig, two for the gardener”? But, you know, I don’t think that that gives Kathy nearly enough credit. She planned the relo of the beds, planned a schematic of what goes in ‘em, planned a watering sked.

And then, days ago, pulled up her first harvest. Her crazy China Rose Radishes, a funky varietal that look like carrots. They weren’t stunted like stuff out front last year; they aren’t some freaky root that underperformed. These suckers actually resemble the glam photo on the seed packet!

Thursday morning, after researching a few recipes the night before, Kathy got up early before work to prepare these China Roses for a quick refrigerator pickling treatment. While she was in her jammas.

And then, a couple of days later, part of her bok choy plot was ready for harvest. Check out the photo, above, of our wares for sale at our stand at the Brentwood Farmers Market (kidding; it’s just the “fruits” of Kath’s labors posing for a digital photo op on one of our backyard cocktail tables).

Last night, Kathy prepared a delicious Asian Beef Noodle Soup featuring star anise, ginger, udon noodles, and the bok choy from the garden. The soup was finished with cilantro, sriracha (that hot, red, chili sauce in the plastic squeeze bottle with the rooster on the label), and a side ramekin of her pickled mixture of China Rose radish, carrot, red onion and jalapeno (which jumped from the side right into the soup bowl). Chopsticks worked for me awhile, but only a big spoon could do the rich broth justice.

And what to drink with such aromatics? Well, K and I just happened, yesterday, to take an adventure to visit a small wine shop about 45 minutes west of us, wherein Kath stumbled upon an old fave from our old ‘hood of Washington state, specifically Woodinville, just north of Seattle. Chateau Ste. Michelle, in partnership with Germany’s Riesling guru, Dr. Ernst Loosen, has produced “Eroica,” one of WA’s consistently nuanced and elegant manifestations of said varietal. Fresh and minerally, with nose passes of lemon and a bit of apricot, the 2008 Columbia Valley “Eroica” Riesling was an exotic complement to a soup comprising its very own exotics.

Monday, June 13, 2011

Muse-ings


Today is Kathy’s birthday.

I want so much to type Fred Astaire’s singing “Today is Washington’s Birthday” from “Holiday Inn,”

Kathy and I drove up to the Sugar Mill in Clarksburg yesterday to pick up our wines from 3 wine company: a nice couple of selections, namely a Carignane Rose from our ‘hood, and a nice off-dry Riesling.

I remember a thang from my Toronto stand-up comedy days in the ‘80s; comic Lou Dinos had a great bit about being buzzed at a party and writing great comedy ideas into his comic’s notebook: “Oh, man, that’s funny! Man, that is funny!”

He got home and looked at his notes. All that was written was, “Oh, man, that’s funny! Man, that is funny!”

Art imitates life, don’t it? I can’t remember the particular Martini that prompted me to dream up the title “Gin is My Editor,” about a would-be writer who, upon reading various articles and letters-to-the editor in weekly rags, would concoct perspicacious replies in his head, and promptly forget them.

Where was I going with this post? I’m thinking that I’ve already told Kathy all of my best stuff. I will say a great bit, but it’s already old-skool. I am tapped, man. As even Jon Stewart would say, “Uhhh, I got nothin’”

Oh, yeah. Sugar Mill. Always a pleasure to hook up with 3’s Erin, Kelly and Janet at das tasting bar to pick up our club selections.

A new tasting room opened across the hall, and specializing in whites for now, showed wonderfully. Clarksburg Wine Company offered a nice portfolio at a nice price point.

On the way home, we took the long way, and found a map that dissects the Delta like we’ve never seen. Everything is an island! I mean, one can get there, but geez, man, how do you decide to build a mansion on a levee?

OK, I admit that this has always been my question of life. Not: “Guru, why are we here?” Not: “Swami, what is the meaning of life?” I’m talking, where do you do groceries? What do you do on your snowbound road when you realize that you need capers? And, anyway, where the $%&# can I GET capers in this burg, never mind milk, and BTW, where’s my friggin’ Netflix?

Since we were already in Clarksburg, it as a quick (whiteknuckled) drive to IKEA Sacramento. But that’s IKEA, planned obsolescence. Wanna find a replacement for that TORTORP? Can’t do it. But can I interest you in our TREWQS? The same wrench works.

OK, those IKEA names are fake, but you know what I mean.

We had a bottle of the 3 wine company Riesling and this bottle from the Sweetwater Ranch in Monterey did the do with a podcast of Hollywood Babble-On and some of Kath’s outrageous Mango Chile

Perfect match. Off-dry, but acidity to navigate through red pepper and sweet mango fruit.

Happy Birthday, Kathleen Marie.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Not-so-noble Rot and (Santa) Cruz Control


Tony just lost a post that he spent hours writing so he is refusing to come near the computer. I don’t consider myself a writer, but a wine drinker’s gotta do what a wine drinker’s gotta do.

We get our share of Groupon deals (Manicures! House cleaning! Spa treatments!), but an e-mail came through for the Santa Cruz Vintner’s Festival that we could not resist. It had been nearly 13 years since we had been tasting in the area, so we bought our tickets (more than 50% off) and planned our trip.

It figures that we departed on a day with torrential rains. So much so that there were times on the freeway that we could not see. Add in windy mountain passes and it makes for a white knuckle adventure. Luckily, the skies cleared once we made our way into Santa Cruz.

Unfortunately, although the brochure advertised tasting from 11:00 – 5:00 most of the tasting rooms did not open until noon. That turned out to be okay when we found ourselves lost in Soquel until 11:45. Sigh.

I chose the next locations with care — lots of wineries in one location with no driving. Pfewf. We had planned on stopping in our Contra Costa fave, Bonny Doon. I knew that they had a new blend, the 2009 Cuvee ET, from our neck of the woods. We met a great couple during our tasting at Bonny Doon. They had lunch reservations and found us later at another tasting room to rave about the food. We made our reservations for dinner at Bonny Doon's Cellar Door immediately.

Dinner began with Smoked Fingerling Potatoes with aioli. You would have thought that the potatoes were supplied by the crack pusher on the corner. Tony and I kept repeating, "Oh my God!" We didn't get the chance to taste the smoked cauliflower soup.

Tony here. Props to Kathy for keeping it level while I am still SO PISSED that 3.5 hours of a post, almost complete, disappeared and could not be retrieved.

Man, I opened with the CoCo crime blotter: stolen property recovered at the corner of Matisse and Michelangelo drives! (Velvet paintings?) Then the grandma who came up to nearby Knightsen to abduct her 4-month-old granddaughter, taking a waiting taxi to Los Angeles County. Not to mention the final sentencing of the Antioch couple who kidnapped Jaycee Dugard and held her captive in a makeshift labyrinth of tarpaulins and outbuildings for 18 years. Hammer time!

But I’m still pissed.

As Kath noted above, dinner at Bonny Doon turned out to be a saving grace; typically Randall.

He eschews a state-of-the-art (circa 1995) winery for an industrial park hosting 4 or 5 other incubating wineries. Then the gob smack: He hires Michelin star chefs to open an open kitchen onsite, but then declines to offer tastes as part of the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association “Vintners’ Festival” weekends.

And all of that goes out the window when one has the Smoked Fingerling Potatoes referenced by Kath above. As her fictional “crack pusher on the corner” might say, “I gots your hook-up; the first one’s free.”

But I’m still pissed.

Bonny Doon is a trip, man. It flaunts RG’s I love you/I hate you/Now change relationship with CoCo County grape growing, at the same time offering a limited release of an old-vine Rhone blend of shiite from the ‘hood. Once upon a time, Homes riffed on a Rhone blend, “Vieux Telegraph,” for his “Old Telegram.” Grahm’s “Cigare Volante” upheld a French province’s alleged sighting of a “flying saucer.”

His “Cuvee ET” takes the piss out of all of that. First off, the Magritte-ish label on the bottle states, en francais, that this is not “un Cigare Volante.” OK, dude; this is not a pipe; this is not a Rhone blend. If you say so.

But this IS a glass-filling mix of raspberry, with crushed flowers, dried blueberry and violet on the nose, and a spicy earth quality on a tart finish.

And the restaurant price is a mere $10 more than the bottle price from the tasting room.

Now, to get the Big Chief smoker fired up and get some potatoes going.