$225,000 Blood Money

We ventured farther afield to the city of Antioch, just past the western border of Oakley. The main drag of our burg changes name, but that’s all. After a few false starts, looking at vines by a mausoleum, we discovered the Evangelho vineyard, planted in 1890 and farmed by the eponymous family since 1938. We drove along a newly paved road, ending at a deserted business park, with rows of old vines on the left, and someone’s trash dumped at the end. Kath found some city council minutes online; apparently in 2007, the city of Antioch decided to invoke eminent domain on part of Frank Evangelho’s vineyard to build said biz park (and a part of the road we drove on). The hearing was in June, and the grapes were just taking shape. Apparently, Frank wasn’t trying to stop the project; he just wanted to get the last harvest out of the grapes that would be ripped up by the easement, and be paid a fair price (Antioch had offered $225K) for the land about to be appropriated. (He wasn’t going to lose the whole vineyard, but a 30-foot width of old vines.) But having driven up on a new road, part of which, we later discovered, probably used to be some of his 110-year-old vines, Kath and I could only hope to toast Frank and fam by trying some Evangelho-designated wines. And Kathy found a few.

“three wine company” is a relatively new venture by Matt Cline and his wife, Erin. Matt is the bro of Fred Cline of Cline Cellars. Yep, it seems that, in CoCo County wine circles, all roads are inclined, in decline, or lead to a Cline. three’s 2007 Zinfandel from the Evangelho vineyard is blended with 7% each of Petite Sirah and Alicante Bouschet from Frank’s nutrient-deprived soil classified as “Delhi Sandy Loam”; Hell, I’d be gnarly headed, too, if I had to put down roots for over 100 years on acreage that barren. The 2007 Evangelho Zin is not a typical Cali Zin: For starters, it’s a relatively modest 14.8% alcohol, and sports none of that mofo-ripe fruit character of some Zins pushing 17+%. Here, the nose shows hints of menthol and very ripe plums, but the mouthfeel is bright, balanced by some solid furry tannins, with a finish that hangs on. A lot of wine writers and other cork dorks have beef with high alcohol wines from super-ripe fruit. I have no prob with those wines; they’re perfect for Snappy Hour stand-alone slurping, but you just want to invite three’s Evangelho Zin over, to share with a home-cooked meal.