Sunday, May 9, 2010

The Glass Key (1931)


Had, without a doubt, one of the coolest tasting experiences last Friday. Kath has been sending out e-mails to vineyard owners and contract growers in the Oakley area, as well as to Cali winemakers who use said CoCo County grapes, in an effort to pinpoint vineyard names and locations, and to discuss their ties to these sites.

Heard back almost immediately from Shauna Rosenblum, winemaker at up-and-coming Rock Wall Wine Co, who, with her dad, venerable vintner Kent Rosenblum, as consulting winemaker, was just going to happen to be in Oakley on Friday. After decades in the biz, Kent sold his Rosenblum Cellars label to drinks giant Diageo, but still keeps his hand in as their consulting winemaker. Now, in partnership with his daughter, he brings his years of vineyard contacts and grower relationships into play for this exciting new venture.

Shauna and her dad were going to be in Oakley to sign a new contract for another Montepulciano crop from a local grower; her first stab at a varietal Monte sold out in 29 hours. She said that she’d grab a bottle from her library stash and come out to the house for a tasting!

I polished the Riedel in anticipation of their arrival. When they came by, Shauna and Kent turned out to be two of the coolest brand ambassadors you’d ever want to clink glasses with: informative, passionate, savvy and warm.

They were also able to solve a couple of our vineyard mysteries by identifying specific sites that we’d seen on Rosenblum labels for years, and Rock Wall labels more recently. For example, Carla’s Vineyard, Kent informed me, is located behind the K-Mart in Antioch (and it just happens to border Frank Evangelho’s property). The 2007 “Carla’s Reserve” Zinfandel from century-old vines exhibits big, ripe blackberry jamminess on the nose, with super-bright cherry acidity with ripe blackberry flavors and even a hint of nuttiness.

Shauna did the honors by uncorking her 2008 Montepulciano from relatively young vines in nearby Brentwood. A lot of the old vines in CoCo were planted by immigrants to the county, so I naturally assumed that an Italian varietal such as Montepulciano was old skool, too. Nope; these vines clock in at around 10 years old, but there’s nothing shy or minor about the wine that Shauna’s made from ‘em. Deep purple color, cocoa powder and black raspberry on the nose, and a big mouthful of cranberry tartness and smoky earthiness. Vinted Zin-style, this complex effort is the Full Monte.

She gracefully left the rest of the bottle for Kathy (who had to work that day), and she and her dad took their leave.

It wasn’t until Shauna and Kent left the house that I realized that I had used the wrong Riedels.

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